Bandhani is one of India’s most cherished textile traditions. The delicate tying of thousands of tiny knots, the richness of colour, and the charm of irregular patterns make authentic Bandhani sarees a treasured art form. But with the rise of fast fashion, screen-printed imitations have become extremely common. These lookalikes may appear similar from a distance, but they lack the soul, craftsmanship and beauty of real Bandhani silks.

If you are buying Bandhani for the first time or adding to your collection, understanding the difference between handcrafted and printed versions is essential. Here is a simple yet thorough guide to help you recognise genuine artistry, especially in premium pieces like Gaji silks and traditional Bandhej sarees.

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1. Look Closely at the Dots: Real Bandhani Is Never Perfect

Handcrafted Bandhani is created by tying tiny knots with thread before dyeing.
Because each knot is made by hand:

• the dots vary in size
• spacing is naturally uneven
• the edges of the dots look organic, not crisp

Screen-printed patterns look too perfect.
Dots appear identical in shape and distance, which is the biggest giveaway.

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2. Feel the Texture for Tied Marks and Raised Knots

Pure Bandhani always carries a slight texture due to the tying process.
You will often feel:

• tiny raised points
• uneven surfaces
• subtle thread impressions

Printed Bandhani has a smooth, flat surface because no tying is involved.
Authentic pieces like Bandhej sarees or Gaji silks will always have tactile depth.

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3. Check the Back of the Fabric

The back of a pure Bandhani saree tells the real story.

On genuine Bandhani:

• colour penetration is uneven
• knots may be visible or leave faint marks
• the dye does not look uniformly flat

On printed lookalikes:

• the pattern on the back looks identical to the front
• the print sits on the surface
• there are no knot impressions

This is one of the simplest ways to verify authenticity.

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4. Colour Variations Are a Sign of Real Craft

Since each tied section resists dye differently, handcrafted Bandhani silks show soft, natural colour transitions.

Printed saris often show:

• perfect gradients
• flat colour blocks
• no natural variation between shades

Real Bandhani displays depth because dye spreads irregularly between tied sections.

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5. Observe the Borders and Motifs Carefully

Authentic Bandhani artisans create motifs using complex tying layouts.
This usually results in:

• motifs that look intricate, not mechanical
• occasional asymmetry
• designs that feel alive and expressive

Screen prints repeat the same motif flawlessly across the saree.
Anything too uniform and overly symmetrical is usually printed.

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6. Premium Fabrics Are Rarely Paired with Fake Bandhani

True handcrafted Bandhani is commonly made on:

• Gaji silks
• mashru
• modal
• chiffon
• georgette

If you see a very inexpensive saree printed on poor-quality fabric, it is almost always fake.
Pure Bandhani sarees and Bandhej sarees are made using high-quality materials that support the tying process.

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7. Price Tells a Story, but Craft Tells the Truth

Handcrafted Bandhani takes many days or weeks to produce.
Screen-printed imitations are made in minutes.

While price alone is not the only factor, genuine Bandhani will never appear suspiciously cheap, especially if it claims to be Gaji silks or premium Bandhani silks.

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Conclusion

Understanding these visual and tactile clues can help you confidently identify pure handcrafted Bandhani.
The beauty of real Bandhani lies in its imperfections, texture and human artistry. Whether you are choosing luxurious Bandhej sarees, soft Gaji silks, or elegant Bandhani silks, investing in authentic craftsmanship ensures your saree carries the tradition, soul and heritage of centuries-old textile art.